Entries Tagged as 'French'

Happiness is a Dirty Kitchen

4

10.9.12

What’s the first thing you cut out when life gets busy? Laying on the couch? Checking stuff/internet surfing? I start slacking on the blog and cleaning. Dustin recently told me, “I like it when you’re busy– you’re much happier. Even though the kitchen is much dirtier.”

And I don’t even know why it’s dirty. It’s not like I’ve done any cooking except testing sausage and bacon recipes for a magazine article. Instead I’ve been living off a steady diet of kolaches, tacos, and the other healthful things for Serious Eats, washed down with rivers of iced coffee, beer, and $3 Whole Foods wine. “How I suffer for my art.”

What else did I do this summer? (It feels like summer is just ending here in Austin BTW) Visited New Orleans for wedding planning! But really just did more eating, drinking, and socializing… then hosted said friends during Hurricane Isaac and repeated the pattern in Austin. I also biked to and from my day job everyday in the 100+ degree heat. I get props for that, right?

I also basked in the glorious Portland late summer weather and attended IFBC while completing a writing class through Cook n’ Scribble. Really, I can always find the time for something if I want to. The class and conference made me realize that this blog has grown SO tiresome. The here-is-some-cool-stuff-I-made-with-a-recipe-and-photo format feels played out.

The last couple months have been a swirl of working, writing, drinking, and schmoozing. I’m exhausted, but I’ve had a blogging breakthrough. Can’t wait to share it with you after I clean my house!

In the meantime, I’m keeping up with the format. Here’s a country pâté I made with some of the scraps from bacon and sausage making along with some venison I found in my freezer.

Paté Campagne
 with Venison

1 tablespoon butter
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 small shallot, diced
1/2 of a medium onion, diced
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, minced
1/4 cup cognac
1 pound pork shoulder, cubed (or various leftovers from sausage making)
1 pound venison shoulder or stew meat, cubed
1/4 pound pancetta or slab bacon, cubed
2 bay leaves
1/8 tsp ground allspice
1/8 teaspoon ground clove
1/4 teaspoon dried ginger
1/4 teaspoon dried coriander
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 cup shelled pistachios

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Toss the pork, venison, and bacon with the bay leaves, allspice, clove, ginger, coriander, and salt and pepper. Place in the refrigerator overnight.
3. Place the meat mixture in the freezer for 30 minutes.
4. In a pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the garlic, shallot, onion and thyme and cook for about five minutes, stirring frequently.
5. Deglaze the pan with the cognac, scraping up the brown bits. Reduce by half, remove the onion and shallot mixture from the heat, and let cool to room temperature.
6. Discard the bay leaves and grind the cold meat into a bowl set in ice.
7. Add the cooled onion mixture to the meat. Using a sturdy spoon, stir vigorously to combine until the meat takes on a uniform texture.
8. Fold in the pistachios, distributing them evenly.
9. Pack the mixture into a terrine. Cover in foil and bake in a water bath in the preheated oven for about 90 minutes or until a meat thermometer reads 170°F at the center of the pâté.
10. Allow to cool for 1 to 2 days in the refrigerator. Slide the pâté out the terrine and slice before serving.

Recreating Paris: Potatoes Stuffed with Pig Trotters

0

04.6.12

Leave it up to the French to transform something as coarse as pig trotters into an inspiration. I’ve mentioned in passing the superb meal we enjoyed at Les Cocottes de Christian Constant. When I saw pommes de terres farcies au pied de porc (potatoes stuffed with pig feet) on the menu, I had to try it. I envisioned a hoof sticking out of a potato or maybe something like April Bloomfield’s famous pig foot dish. But my stomach wasn’t at 100% after staying out late drinking too much champagne at our friends’ wedding. I’d take a few bites, and then push it off to the side and let Dustin finish the rest.

The dish that arrived wasn’t at all what I was expecting. It appeared to be baked or boiled potatoes, stuffed with shredded pork. It was crusty and almost caramelized on the surface. The crisp meat and soft potatoes created a true harmony of textures complemented by the flavor of savory pork, sweet onions, and some underlying acidity. My mild hangover melted away— I wanted to devour all of it.

The wheels in my head started spinning. I’m the type of girl who snatches up pig trotters when she spots them at the farmers’ market. They had been languishing in the freezer amidst vague plans to make headcheese (foot cheese, really). Since  I’m not a huge headcheese fan, I never got around to it. I would make these potatoes instead!

I found the recipe and a video when I returned, but they were in French. I had been naïve to think the potatoes were boiled; they were indeed fried in about six inches of duck fat. See for yourself in the video below where they whip out a four pound brick of duck fat and toss it in the skillet like it’s nothing. No wonder those potatoes tasted so good.

[vimeo http://www.vimeo.com/19391583 w=500&h=281]

I busted out the trusty old French skillz and Google Translate to decipher the recipe. It had some major gaps in the process. For instance, M. Constant expected that I already knew how to braise trotters. Also, a brick of duck fat is expensive here in the U.S., so I used a mixture of duck fat, lard, and butter. I turned the potatoes instead of completely submerging them. In the end, transforming those trotters into this exquisite dish made me feel like a true French peasant slaving away over meager ingredients to get dinner on the table for my farmer husband and scruffy kids.

Potatoes Stuffed with Pig Trotters adapted from the dish by Christian Constant

Ingredients

  • 2 pig trotters
  • salt
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 teaspoon whole peppercorns
  • a few thin slices of onions
  • 2 tablespoons diced cornichons
  • 1/4 cups of capers, chopped
  • 1 small onion, diced
  • 10 sprigs of parsley, chopped
  • 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
  • 12 Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled
  • 1 1/2 cups of pure duck fat, or a mix of duck fat, lard, or butter
  • butter for baking
Procedure

1. Place the trotters in a Dutch oven with a few generous pinches of salt, the peppercorns, bay leaves, and onion slices. Slowly cook them in an oven heated to 250 degrees for about 6 hours, or until the meat is pulling away from the bone.

2. When the trotters are cool enough to handle, slice them in half. Remove the meat from the bones, including the gelatinous cartilage. There will be lots and lots of bones, and you’ll be left with about two cups of meat.

3. Finely chop the meat into tiny pieces. Remove any bones you find in the process.

4. Place the meat, parsley, diced onions, capers, cornichons, and mustard in a large bowl. Mix to distribute evenly.

5. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Using a spoon, scoop out the flesh of the potatoes to form a cradle for the pork mixture.

5. Thinly slice the bottom of the potatoes to create a flat surface.

6. Melt the fat in a skillet.  Cook the potatoes on medium-low heat in the fat for about 10 to 15 minutes per side. You might need to do this in batches. Be extremely careful when flipping the potatoes because sometimes they stick. PLEASE DON’T BURN YOURSELF WITH MOLTEN ANIMAL FATS!

7. CAREFULLY remove the potatoes to a plate lined with paper towels. When the skillet has cooled, pour the fat into a container and reserve for another use.

8.  Arrange the potatoes in a skillet or rimmed baking dish. Fill each one with the pork mixture. Dot the tops of each potato with butter.

9. bake for 45 minutes, or until the pork is browned on top and heated through. When ready to eat, carefully remove them from pan because they might stick. Serve while still warm.

 

Back from Paris

0

13.5.12

Wouldn’t it be lovely to spend your life wondering the streets of Paris/eating copious amounts of cheeses & pastries/not working? That’s just not the way the world works unfortunately.

Last month we arrived in Paris jet lagged and disoriented, found our hotel, dropped off our bags, and headed for Pierre Hermé. We picked up a delicious pain au chocolat along with three macarons. Welcome to Paris!

I also dragged Dustin to several cheese shops. Fromageries are funny— it seemed like there were always more people working than shopping. The scene at Barthélemy was particularly amusing. While I was sparring/discussing with the guy about what type of Comté I wanted, he suddenly motioned at me to step back. Then a trapped door in the floor opened. A small man popped out carrying a tray of goat cheeses, piled picturesquely in perfect stacks. We also picked up a slice of rabbit terrine and pastries along on the way.

Feeling smug about my success recalling college French classes, we ventured to a kitchen supply store in Les Halles. Once again, there were more workers than customers. The woman at the register barked something at me, and I didn’t understand a single word. I bumbled through the transaction and somehow left with a new terrine for my charcuterie projects. I won’t need to use a loaf pan anymore!

We had an outstanding final meal in Paris at Les Cocottess, and witnessed Christian Constant himself interrogating his chef. I hope to recreate the standout meal for the blog sometime. More to come.

April in Paris

6

11.4.12

That’s me on my first trip to Europe— young, fresh-faced, and in high school. I’m in the blue and red velvet costume on the left. Dustin and I will be traveling there again this month to attend a wedding. Since that first trip, I’ve lived in Spain and traveled several times to France. I’ve seen all the big sites, so this trip will be mostly about eating… oh and marriage and stuff.

So I need your recommendations! I’m not a fancy restaurant person, but I love shopping for food when I travel. I plan to hit up bakeries and chocolate shops and track down some oysters and decent duck confit. I have some strong cheese opinions and want raw Loire Valley goat cheeses and Comté aged 2+ years. Taking that into account, where do you like to eat in Paris?

The Whole Duck Continued: Duck Rillettes

3

12.1.12

A whole duck is the gift that keeps on giving. Before Christmas I used one to make duck confit. I was left with lots of meat clinging to the carcass, as well as a tub of fat. They screamed out to me, “make rillettes!” But I was too overwhelmed and tucked them away in the freezer for later.

Rillettes are a traditional French hors d’oeuvre served in a jar or ramekin. They are usually made of some type of meat (pork, fish, chicken, and duck) long-simmered in fat with herbs and aromatics until tender and spreadable. Sealed with a layer of fat, they keep in the fridge for weeks and are served at room temperature accompanied by slices of baguette or crackers. It’s a thrifty cooking technique that turns almost unusable scraps of meat into a delicious treat. Duck rillettes are particularly rich and satisfying.

Last weekend I felt inspired and removed the carcass and fat from the freezer. It was painful, but I picked off all the meat for my bastardized version of duck rillettes. I flavored them with aromatic spices and garlic, and it all came together in less than 30 minutes.

Duck Rillettes

Ingredients

  • 1 1/2 cups of shredded duck meat
  • 3/4 cup duck fat, or as needed
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground allspice
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
  • 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely grated
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • kosher salt to taste

1. Combine the meat and 1/2 a cup of the duck fat in a saucepan. Turn the heat on low and stir to evenly coat the meat with the melting fat.

2. After the fat has melted, stir in the spices and garlic. Cook the mixture on low heat for about 20 minutes.

3. Remove the rillettes from the heat. Using a hand mixer, beat the mixture on low until the fat is evenly distributed and the meat is uniformly shredded. The rillettes should be moist and creamy but look separable. Add more fat if the mixture looks too stiff. Flavor with salt and pepper to taste.

4. Pack the rillettes into glass jars. Melt the remaining fat and pour it over the rillettes to seal. Store the jars in the fridge.

Remember to bring the rillettes to room temperate before you serve them. They will keep for 3 to 4 weeks with an unbroken fat seal. But they won’t last that long, because this recipe is just as good as the long-simmered traditional variety. It’s been less than a week since I made these duck rillettes, and we’ve almost finished our stash.

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