Entries Tagged as 'Cookbook Reviews'

Book Review: My Berlin Kitchn

0

17.10.12

France and Italy get all the attention in food memoirs. Think about it– My Life in France, Under the Tuscan Sun, the part in Comfort Me with Apples where Ruth Reichl is doing Colman Andrews, Between Meals, Eat Pray Love, etc. There must be hundreds of food memoirs pontificating on the wonders of French and Italian cuisine. It gets tedious. Yes, we know France and Italy are fabulous, but too many other destinations get pushed under the carpet.

Berlin really got under my skin when I visited in 2004. It feels strangely empty– as large as two cities with the population of one. It takes awhile to travel between the vastly different neighborhoods, traversing parks and Cold War era no man’s lands. As a 20th Century history nerd, I was fascinated by Berlin’s historic sites, but it’s also a forward thinking place with a youthful Euro vibe. And I adore the unpretentious German tradition of sipping a stein of golden pilsner while snacking on sausages, pretzels, and sauerkraut.

So I was intrigued to read My Berlin Kitchen by Luisa Weiss, the blogger behind The Wednesday Chef. The daughter of an American father and an Italian mother, she chronicles her life growing up in Berlin, moving to Boston, moving back to Berlin, settling as a young adult in New York, and then finally moving back to Berlin in her thirties. Her father moved back to the United States after her parents divorced, and she led a disjointed existence pulled between her father in the United states, her mother in Berlin, and her Italian relatives. Each chapter is short, self-contained, and includes a recipe. Several of them detail her trips to visit relatives in Italy and her year studying in Paris to keep the food memoir purists satiated.

Above all, Weiss is completely relatable. Food memoirists aren’t the most self-aware bunch, often detailing their glamorous lives of cooking, dining, and travel. But even though Luisa lives the supposed dream (youth spent in New York City, food blogger turned writer, beautiful wedding in Italy to perfect guy) you don’t begrudge her for it. You cheer her on because she’s honest about all of the hard work and heartache she went through to get there. Ultimately, Weiss’s story is inspirational. She worked hard, trusted her gut, took big chances, and it paid off.

And if writing a vulnerable and heart felt memoir isn’t enough, Weiss also included over 40 recipes in the book. They could almost comprise a small cookbook by themselves! But I couldn’t help but ask myself– does every single important moment in your life actually relate to food somehow? Is that really how the world works? I can’t help but feel it’s a tad contrived.

But there’s no better person to include all of these recipes in a memoir. Weiss is a descriptive food writer. Every time I finished a chapter, I fought the urge to put the book down and make her food. She’s also an adventurous cook and baker, so her recipes aren’t boring tarts with stuff she made from the farmers market. Not that I wouldn’t happily eat that.

I made one of the simpler recipes from her book. This salad of roasted peppers, breadcrumbs, and anchovies is one of her Italian mother’s staple dishes. It maybe converted me to roasting my peppers in the oven instead of on the gas stove from now on.

Peperoni al Forno Conditi

2 to 3 slices stale white peasant bread
3 red bell peppers
3 yellow bell peppers
1/4 cup oil-cured black olives, pitted and chopped
1/4 cup salt-cured capers, soaked and drained
3 anchovy fillets, minced
1 cup loosely packed flat-leaf parsley, minced
4 tablespoons best-quality olive oil, or more to taste
Flaky salt, such as Maldon

1. Cut the stale bread into rough chunks and blitz in the food processor until they turn to coarse crumbs. Spread the crumbs on a plate and set aside to crisp up and dry out.

2.Heath the oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Wash and dry the peppers and arrange them on the baking sheet. Put the sheet in the oven and bake for 45 minutes, turning the peppers every 10 to 15 minutes to make cure they cook evenly (I use my fingers, but you could also use cooking tongs). By the end of the cooking time, they should be blistered all over, and their juices bubbling.

3.Remove the baking sheet from the oven and let cool on a wire rack until you are able to handle the peppers. Set out a clean plate or bowl next to the baking sheet and pull the skin off the peppers, working over the aluminum foil. Take care when you “unplug” the stem of the pepper: hot steam or liquid usually comes gushing out. Your hands will become quite wet as you work; periodically dry them to facilitate cleaning the peppers. Transfer the peeled peppers, devoid of any seeds, to the plate or bowl. As you transfer the pieces of pepper, use your fingers to tear the flesh into thin strips. Discard the aluminum foil and the pepper trimmings.

4. Sprinkle the plate of peppers with the breadcrumbs, olives, anchovies if using, capers, and parsley, and drizzle the olive oil over the peppers. Mix gently, and then add a few pinches of flaky salt to taste. Serve right away or let sit at room temperature, covered, for up to 4 hours before serving. If you’re not going to serve the peppers right away, don’t sprinkle on the breadcrumbs until the last minute. That way they retain their crunch.

Disclaimer: Viking sent me a review copy of the book. I was not otherwise compensated to write this review.

Cookbook Review: Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone by Deborah Madison

9

26.6.12

My absolute favorite cookbook ever is Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone by Deborah Madison. I credit her with teaching me to cook. It’s not just a vegetarian cookbook— it’s a guide to anything you’d ever want to cook that happens to be meatless. Wondering how to make mayonnaise? Or the best way to cook zucchini? Just consult Deborah Madison and her impeccable sense of flavor. After you master those simple recipes, move on to much more complicated dishes like butternut squash ravioli with toasted pecans and sage— one of the best meals of my life, right up there with Uchi. This huge book has 1400 recipes that appeal to every skill level, so you’ll never get bored.

No one venerates seasonal produce as much as Deborah Madison, clear in her delightful writing. First published in 1997 before farmers’ markets were fashionable, Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone was ahead of its time. I’ve returned to it again and again now that I subscribe to a CSA. The useful index lists recipes for every vegetable imaginable, and D.M. always knows the best way to prepare them.

Of course this book isn’t without faults. D.M. learned to cook while a student at the San Francisco Zen Center, so the book is quite California-centric. I can’t always turn to her for new ways to prepare the black-eyed peas, okra, collards, and green tomatoes that seem omnipresent at Austin farmers’ markets. Her soup recipes are occasionally disappointing, and I don’t depend on her for desserts.

Her other books, like Local Flavors, are also outstanding, but Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone will always have a special place in my heart. I followed those recipes word for word when I was learning to cook, but now they’re more like a source of inspiration. Some of the recipes, like roast potatoes with garlic, have become so second nature to me that I forgot where I learned them.

This fresh tomato sauce is another example of a dead simple recipe that I’ve integrated seamlessly into my repertoire. By the way, D.M. taught me NEVER to put tomatoes in the fridge because it “cold kills everything about them that’s good.” You can actually find me saying that word for word on occasion. After growing up on Prego and it’s ilk, this sauce was a revelation. Fresh summer tomatoes simmered with basil and finished with a glug of olive oil tastes like sunshine in a bowl.

Fresh Tomato Sauce from Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone by Deborah Madison

3 pounds ripe tomatoes, quartered
3 tablespoons chopped basil or 1 tablespoon chopped marjoram
Salt and freshly milled pepper
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil or butter

Put the tomatoes in a heavy pan with the basil. Cover and cook over medium-high heat. The tomatoes should yield their juices right away, but keep an eye on the pot to make sure the pan isn’t dry. You don’t want the tomatoes to scorch. When the tomatoes have broken down after 10 minutes, pass them through a food mill. If you want the final sauce to be thicker, return it to the pot and cook over low heat, stirring frequently, until it’s as thick as you want. Season with salt and pepper to taste and stir in the oil.

Cookbook Review: Tender by Nigel Slater

0

31.5.12

There’s been some major seasonal produce/farmers’ market fetishism (of which I’m also an eager participant) during the past few years, so vegetables can seem played out. That’s partly why so much meat appears on this blog, but produce was actually my first love. Nigel Slater’s outstanding cookbook, Tender, got me back in touch with my roots.

The book is organized by vegetable and written from the perspective of a gardener. Yet Slater doesn’t shy away from the use of bacon, prosciutto, and artisan cheeses. He understands that these ingredients bring out the best in seasonal produce. I particularly enjoyed his recipe for celery root remoulade— crumbling crisp bacon over the top really dialed this French bistro classic up a notch.

The book is inspiration for dishes that will clean out the fridge or the pantry. The recipes are more like guidelines and come together quickly for weeknight dinners. They’re adaptable for anyone with cooking intuition, as you can can easily swap out different vegetables for whatever you have on hand. Some of the ingredient combinations are unexpected like the Creamy Baked Brussels Sprouts with Stilton. I collected some bits of Stichelton from my fridge, swapped out the sprouts for kale, and one friend who was scared of blue cheese actually loved the dish.

These carrot fritters are another example of a quick satisfying meal, and you’ll probably find most of the ingredients in your kitchen already.

Carrot and Cilantro Fritters

Ingredients

11 ounces carrots
a medium onion
a clove of garlic, crushed
2/3 cup heavy cream
1 egg, beaten
3 tablespoons grated cheese, such as a good strong Cheddar
cilantro leaves- a handful, coarsely chopped
all-purpose flour- a heaping tablespoon
olive oil for shallow frying

Procedure

Scrub the carrots and push them through a food processor fitted with a grater attachment. If you prefer, grate them by hand using the coarse side of the grater. Either way, you are after long, thin shreds rather than mush. Transfer them to a bowl.

Peel the onion, finely slice or grate it, and stir it into the carrots along with the garlic and seasoning of salt and black pepper. Stir in the heavy cream, beaten egg, grated cheese, coarsely chopped cilantro, and the flour.

Warm a shallow layer of olive oil in a nonstick frying pan. Drop large dollops of the mixture into the pan, a couple at a time, and fry until lightly cooked at the bottom. Turn with a spatula and let the other side color. They should take three or four minutes per side. The cakes are ready as soon as they are dark gold. Remove to a warm plate. A sheet of paper towel will remove any oil. Eat immediately.

Cookbook Review: 5 Spices, 50 Dishes

1

03.10.11

I’m never going to an Indian restaurant again! That’s what I declare each time I cook from Ruta Kahate’s book 5 Spices 50 Dishes. Armed with this cookbook and five common spices (turmeric, coriander, cumin, cayenne, and mustard seeds), you can make 50 distinct Indian dishes based on beans, meat, eggs, or seafood. She also includes directions for making various raitas, desserts, and breads. Unique recipes like chickpeas with dill, roasted lamb with burnt onions, egg curry, and okra raita result in bright, fresh flavors instead of the greasy slop and frozen naan bread served at sub-par Indian eateries.I have never been anything less than thrilled with Kahate’s recipes, and I’ve cooked most of them. The black-eyes peas in a spicy Goan curry is now one of my go-to meals when I want something quick and easy for dinner. She doesn’t include directions for using fresh peas, but I bring them to a boil when I start cooking, and then simmer them until they’re ready to add to the sauce. With all the fresh black-eyed peas available in Texas right now, it’s a fun and unexpected way to use them.

Black-Eyed Peas in a Spicy Goan Curry from 5 Spices, 50 Dishes by Ruta Kahate

Ingredients

	1	cup dried black-eyed peas or two 15-ounce cans, drained
	2	Tbsp. canola oil
	1	small yellow onion, minced (about 1 cup)
	1	tsp. coriander seeds, finely ground
	½	tsp. finely grated garlic (about 1 large clove)
	½	tsp. finely grated fresh ginger (a 1-inch piece)
	½	tsp. ground turmeric
	½	tsp. cayenne
	½	tsp. cumin seeds, finely ground
	¼	cup minced tomato (1 small tomato)
	2	cups (or 1 cup if using canned peas) hot water
	½	tsp. salt, or to taste if using canned peas
	½	tsp. sugar
	1	cup canned coconut milk
	2	Tbsp. minced cilantro leaves
	1	Tbsp. lemon juice

If using dried black-eyed peas, soak them in water to cover for 6 to 8 hours. Drain.
In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium-low heat and sauté the onion until it turns dark brown, about 8 minutes. Add the coriander, garlic, ginger, turmeric, cayenne, and cumin, and stir for 2 minutes. Add the tomato and stir over low heat until it disintegrates.
Add the peas and mix well. Pour in the water, add the salt and sugar, and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to low, cover, and simmer until the peas are cooked through, about 20 minutes. If using canned peas, simmer for only 10 minutes (it is essential to simmer the canned peas too so that the flavors blend better). Stir in the coconut milk and simmer for another 8 to 10 minutes, again allowing the flavors to come together.
Add the cilantro and lemon juice, simmer for 1 minute more, and remove from the heat. Serve immediately.

Cookbook Review: Cradle of Flavor

0

07.7.11

I was in Amsterdam the first time I tried Indonesian food. The city has a large Indonesian population, a result of Dutch colonization of the Southeast Asian nation. My food arrived on an oval-shaped plate, piled high with about five different dishes to sample. It was a taste sensation; I had never had anything else like it. Crispy fried tempeh drenched in a sweet and sour sauce and crunchy cabbage and shrimp chips smothered in a spicy peanut sauce were the stand outs. I haven’t been able to find a comparable Indonesian meal in the United States, even while living in New York City.

So I was thrilled to get my hands on James Oseland’s cookbook Cradle of Flavor: Home Cooking from the Spice Islands of Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore. Oseland is the editor-in-chief of my favorite food magazine out there right now, Saveur. He first traveled to Indonesia as a college student when he took his friend up on an offer to visit her home in Jakarta. The cuisine, so different from anything he grew up with, fascinated him. It was full of exotic flavors like galangal, lemongrass, and daun salam leaves, but also familiar flavors like cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon cooked using unfamiliar methods.

Oseland was hooked after that first trip, and during the past 25 years he has traveled extensively throughout Malaysia, Singapore, and other regions of Indonesia. He collected recipes along the way that are now published in this book. Oseland labored to maintain the recipes’ authenticity, and they aren’t dumbed down for American cooks. He only occasionally calls for shortcuts like using a food processor when it could stand in for a mortar and pestle. But his admirable attempt to preserve authenticity can be a bit extreme. For instance, I’ve made the outstanding recipe for chicken satay a couple of times where Oseland specifically calls for chicken thighs meat still on the bone. The first time I spent almost an hour cutting away the meat from the bone, preparing it for the marinade. Another time I had some leftover boneless, skinless chicken thigh meat left from sausage making, and I decided to make the excellent satay recipe again. Using boneless, skinless meat really didn’t affect the quality of the meal, so don’t be afraid to experiment with taking shortcuts when cooking from Cradle of Flavor.

Oseland describes most of the recipes as simple, but I find them quite labor intensive. They usually call for a large number of ingredients and lots of knife chopping or hauling out the food processor. Many of the recipes are worth the work, though, because they are truly outstanding and unlike anything you can eat at a restaurant. The beef rendang is a standout for its potent flavor, and the cooking method is like that employed in preparing Mexican carnitas, using beef instead of pork. Over the course of 3-4 hours, tough beef chuck is transformed into a tender, luscious dish. He includes delicious vegetable dishes as well, like the Green Beans with Coconut Milk, Lemongrass-Scented Coconut Rice, and now I use his method for preparing all sorts of greens. I look forward to making the Gado-Gado, which I suspect is the first Indonesian dish I tried in Amsterdam so many years ago.

Although Americans are now familiar with various Asian cuisines, the foods of the “Spice Islands” remain largely unknown. Oseland’s beautifully thorough book has vivid descriptions of his travels and the distinct regions of the area. There is also a guide to common ingredients including color photos and advice on where to buy some of the more obscure ingredients, many of which I had never heard of before opening this book. Cradle of Flavor is a probably the only cookbook of its kind.

Biscuits of Today

Welcome

POPULAR POSTS

Categories

Archives