Entries Tagged as 'Cheese'

Mushroom Manchego Toasts

0

02.12.12

I didn’t bring this recipe back with me from living in Spain– it’s actually inspired by a dish from a bar in New Orleans. In my mind, Mimi’s in the Marigny is more famous for boozing hardcore at 4am instead of food. The website says “the vibe at Mimi’s in the Marigny is more house party than hotspot.” That sort of kills me, but I reluctantly admit that’s its an apt description. These delicately creamy mushrooms cradled in melted manchego cheese on crisp toasts are just as satisfying when sober. The mushrooms are best cooked in sherry, but I’ve begrudgingly cooked them in white wine a time or two. The results were still outstanding.

Mushroom Manchego Toasts

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 3 small shallots, sliced
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 3/4 pound cremini mushrooms, sliced
  • 1/4 cup sherry
  • 1/4 cup milk
  • 1 tablespoon cream cheese
  • 1 teaspoon paprika
  • 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
  • 1 baguette, thinly sliced
  • 1/2 pound of manchego cheese, thinly sliced into triangles

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are translucent and just lightly browned.

2. Add the garlic to the shallots and cook, stirring frequently, for about three minutes.

3. Now add the sliced mushrooms to the skillet and season generously with salt and pepper. Turn up the heat to medium high, and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

4. Deglaze the pan with the sherry, scraping the browned bits from the bottom.

5. After most of the sherry has reduced, turn the heat back to medium and stir in the milk. Cook until it has reduced by more than half.

6. Turn off the heat and stir in the cream cheese. Now add the paprika and parsley, and stir until evenly distributed.

7. Place the baguette slices on a baking sheet. Arrange the cheese to cover the slices and place in the oven for 8 – 10 minutes or until cheese is melted. Remove from the oven. Spoon the mushrooms over the toasts and serve.

0 comments categories: Cheese, Mushrooms, Vegetables

Wild Mushrooms, Hutilacoche, and IFBC

5

09.9.12

“Wait, where are the mushrooms?” I glanced down at the bag of cherries in my hand as the double doors smashed together and the train pulled away. Dread. Disappointment. That crackly paper bag of luminous lobster mushrooms and farmstead goat cheese was now destined for an all-day ride around Portland. I left them behind while dreaming of the hutilacoche, wild mushroom, and truffle oil huarache I recently ate at La Condesa. But it was more the distracting thoughts about this year’s IFBC. As Morrissey would say, “Typical me.” Crankier than ever, I headed back to the conference to face the “blogging as industry” onslaught.

I had felt  triumphant when I saw that mushroom stand. Others might call it smug. Thirty minutes earlier, I had been sitting in a drab conference room listening to presentations about pushing magic buttons to get 25,000 or 100,000 unique views per month. Meanwhile, there was a whole world of tastes, smells, and blogging inspiration to discover in the city buzzing around us.  A twinge in my gut cried out “run away!” (this happens often), so I fled to the bustling Portland Farmers’ Market full of berries, oysters, cheese makers, and foragers. Earlier I had indulged in a sublime pâté at Olympic Provisions– that sweet pork butter melted on my tongue upon contact, swirling with barnyard and mustard. At Pok Pok Noi, I reveled in the juxtaposition of cool papaya salad against a fiery sauce of bird’s eye chilis, palm sugar, and pungent fish sauce. The spiciness of the salty black land crab topping exceeded that of the actual salad. I had no choice but to extinguish the fire with a cold pint of local lager. And the coffee at Coava Roastery? Don’t even get me started. It was the most emotional coffee experience ever– brewed in a glass beaker-esque French press, releasing aromas of raspberry and chocolate. Isn’t that the kind of stuff that really inspires bloggers? Or is it really SEO, brands, and PR stuff?

So I’m naïve. I didn’t know people created blogs just to make money. Can they really eat their sidebar ads alone?  And I wasn’t ready for the brand shilling. The Pork Board presentation made me feel particularly dirty, but I still lugged home one of their cute pig cutting boards, so what does that say about me? I’m not against working with brands per se, but I haven’t fully digested my feelings. On another note, I had no idea so many bloggers want a cooking show. I thought everyone who started a blog was like me– content to hide behind a computer screen.

Conferences are tough for an introvert like me. People make small talk, size you up quickly, determine if you’re worth their time. It’s not personal or aimed at anyone in particular– I’m sure I’m guilty of it as well. It’s just an observation about how conferences (and the world, for that matter) work, and I wish it weren’t that way. Yet I can’t wait to go through my pile of business cards and say “Hi” to all the lovely people I met.

So what happened after I returned to the conference mushroomless? The Saturday afternoon sessions were much more my speed. Diane Morgan’s presentation demystified the cookbook writing process, empowering me to pursue that goal maybe ten years down the road or so. I also enjoyed Kathleen Flinn’s writing pep talk, inspiring me to shake things up on this often formulaic blog. I was in high spirits by the end of the night and probably should have stopped partying and gone to bed earlier. But that’s just me being me.

These words came in a rush. Rarely does that happen. Clearly IFBC inspired me to keep blogging, but for now I’ll use it more for writing practice and taking Tastespotting-worthy photos. Other than that, let the chips fall where they may. And I felt better after realizing that at least I didn’t lose the truffle oil. Besides, I could buy wild mushrooms  in Austin shipped in from Oregon. Isn’t that what our giant Whole Foods is for anyways?

Huitlacoche Huaraches with Wild Mushrooms and Truffle Oil

  • 1 cup powdered masa harina for tortillas (such as Maseca brand)
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • 1/4 pound mixed wild mushrooms, chopped (like chanterelles, hen of the woods, or lobster mushrooms)
  • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 1/4 cup huitlacoche
  • 1/4 cup Cotija cheese
  • 1/4 cup Mexican crema
  • 2 tablespoons fresh epazote, coarsely chopped
  • truffle oil for drizzling

1.   In a medium bowl, mix together masa harina and 1/2 teaspoon salt and 3/4 cup hot water. Mix together with your hands until a uniform dough forms. Set aside.

2. Melt the butter in a skillet set over medium heat and add the mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper and cook until well browned, about 10 minutes. Remove the cooked mushrooms from the skillet and set aside.

3. Wipe the skillet with a paper towel. Pour in the vegetable oil and heat over medium high heat. Separate the huarache dough into three balls. Form each ball into an oblong oval about 1/2 inch thick and immediately place in the hot pan. Cook for about 5 minutes on each side, or until dark brown spots appear. Remove the huaraches to a plate.

4. Spread each huarache with a tablespoon or so of huitlacoche and then top with the mushrooms. Drizzle with a little truffle oil, and then add the Cotija cheese and crema. Garnish with the chopped epazote and serve.

5 comments categories: Cheese, Mexican, Ramblings, Travel, Vegetables

Huitlacoche Quesadillas with Pickled Habaneros

3

08.8.12

Peeps often ask me where I lived in New York. Brooklyn? Queens? “No,” I answer definitively, “Manhattan.” “Oooooh,” they say knowingly, with visions of doormen, elevators, and skyline views filling their heads. Sometimes I let them think it was that glamorous. And I guess it was, if you consider Mexican grocery stores, dead bodies stuffed into suitcases, and creepy dudes demanding money from you glamorous.

Ok, so I’m being dramatic (although it’s all true), but East Harlem is still a little rough around the edges. The shining beacon of a bright spot in my neighborhood was Taco Mix, a hole-in-the-wall taqueria open 24/7. The guys who work there turn out authentic tacos, quesadillas, and tortas at all hours of the night. They are absolute pros– I don’t know what the hell they do to make the food taste so good.

Besides tacos al Pastor, one of my favorite menu items was their quesadillas. But this wasn’t just some flour tortilla and Colby Jack abomination. The Taco Mix guys enclosed Oaxaca and Cotija cheeses in a pillow of fresh masa, cooked it on the griddle, and finished it off with crema. The resulting tortilla was somewhat thicker than usual, crispy around the edges and soft in the middle. Thankfully, chicken was not a filling choice as squash blossoms, mushrooms and huitlacoche were the only options.

Huitlacoche, the ink-black corn fungus, was my favorite. It’s essentially a mushroom that grows on corn. Hutilacoche’s savory earthiness and viscous consistency really beefs up a quesadilla, and that’s why it’s such a great combination.

I don’t know if habanero peppers are traditionally served on the side, but that’s how I liked it. The beautiful collage of green orange and purple looks so inviting until you put them in your mouth. Sometimes at 4 in the morning, beyond my better judgement, I would put heaps of these pickled habaneros on my quesadilla and light my mouth on FIRE. Only follow my example if you want a bad case of the hiccups.

Huitlacoche Quesadillas with Pickled Habaneros

For tortillas:

  • 1 tablespoons lard
  • 1 cup maseca mixed with 3/4 cup to 1 cup water

For filling:

  • 4 ounces queso de Oaxaca
  • 4 ounces cotija cheese
  • 1/2 cup huitlacoche

Place the maseca in a medium bowl and add the water. Using your hands, mix them together until a ball of dough pulls together. It should be moist but not too sticky to handle. Divide the dough into 4 balls and set aside.

Heat a cast iron skillet or comal over medium high heat. Rip off a piece of wax paper and place it on the kitchen counter. place one of the dough balls on it, and then place  another piece of waxed paper over the dough so that it is sandwiched between the wax paper. Using a cast iron skillet or something heavy, press the dough as flat as you can.

Carefully peel the flattened dough from the wax paper and place it on the heated skillet. Working quickly, layer queso de Oaxaca, cotija cheese, and huitlacoche on one side of the tortilla. Using a spatula, carefully fold the other side of the tortilla over the filling, and cook the other side. The quesadilla is ready when the outside is speckled with dark spots and the cheese on the inside is melted. Repeat with the other three.

Carefully unfold the quesadillas a bit and drizzle some crema on the filling. Serve with pickled habaneros and red onions if desired.

 

3 comments categories: Cheese, Mexican, Vegetables

Back from Paris

0

13.5.12

Wouldn’t it be lovely to spend your life wondering the streets of Paris/eating copious amounts of cheeses & pastries/not working? That’s just not the way the world works unfortunately.

Last month we arrived in Paris jet lagged and disoriented, found our hotel, dropped off our bags, and headed for Pierre Hermé. We picked up a delicious pain au chocolat along with three macarons. Welcome to Paris!

I also dragged Dustin to several cheese shops. Fromageries are funny— it seemed like there were always more people working than shopping. The scene at Barthélemy was particularly amusing. While I was sparring/discussing with the guy about what type of Comté I wanted, he suddenly motioned at me to step back. Then a trapped door in the floor opened. A small man popped out carrying a tray of goat cheeses, piled picturesquely in perfect stacks. We also picked up a slice of rabbit terrine and pastries along on the way.

Feeling smug about my success recalling college French classes, we ventured to a kitchen supply store in Les Halles. Once again, there were more workers than customers. The woman at the register barked something at me, and I didn’t understand a single word. I bumbled through the transaction and somehow left with a new terrine for my charcuterie projects. I won’t need to use a loaf pan anymore!

We had an outstanding final meal in Paris at Les Cocottess, and witnessed Christian Constant himself interrogating his chef. I hope to recreate the standout meal for the blog sometime. More to come.

0 comments categories: Charcuterie, Cheese, Dessert, French, Travel

Crawfish Pasta and Jazz Fest Emotions

2

12.5.12

It was Jazz Fest in New Orleans last weekend. I went once or twice a year when I lived there. My first experience involved hopping the VIP barricades to watch Bruce Springsteen up close. Then I rode home in the back of a pickup truck driven by some old hippies. Periodically they’d stop in the street and open all the doors so we could enjoy the Black-Eyed Peas blasting from the radio. I guess it was thoughtful of them.

A random drunk guy got a ride with them too. He rambled to me all about growing up in Gentilly. Being out in the Louisiana sun all day in May makes every drink twice as strong, so I can’t blame him.

Little did I know I’d see that man annually for the next four years. It became part of the Jazz Fest routine. We boarded the Jackson Avenue bus from our Garden District apartment and headed to the Fairgrounds. Like clockwork, a trio of middle-aged men boarded the bus from downtown. One of them was that guy, and sometimes he was forced to sit across from me. But we never acknowledged each other ever again. He was probably so drunk he didn’t remember or maybe just embarrassed. It was somewhat awkward.

I wonder if that guy boarded the Jackson Avenue bus again this past weekend? Some of my bffs still live in New Orleans, but they no longer partake in the bus routine. They’ve moved on.

Oh I was recently gifted some freshly peeled crawfish tails and made a dish similar to the quintessential Jazz Fest dish, Crawfish Monica. It’s pasta smothered in a spicy crawfish sauce. Kajun Kettle Foods only makes it for Jazz Fest, but now you can make it at home.

Crawfish Pasta

Ingredients

1 pound fusilli or penne
1 tablespoons olive oil
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons paprika
1/2 teaspoon onion powder
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon dried marjoram
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1/4 cup dry white wine
1 1/2 cup heavy cream
juice of half a lemon
1 pound crawfish tails
1/2 cup chopped green onions
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Directions

1. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and cook the pasta until it is al dente. Drain and reserve 1/2 a cup of the cooking liquid. Toss the pasta with the olive oil and cooking liquid and set aside.

2. Melt the butter and cook the onions over medium high heat until their soft, about 5 to 10 minutes. Add the salt and black pepper to taste along with garlic, paprika, cayenne pepper, onion powder, marjoram, and thyme and cook for another 1 to 2 minutes.

3. Pour in the white wine and cook over medium heat until almost evaporated. Stir in the cream and lemon and simmer until slightly reduced. Add the crawfish tails, green onions, and parsley, and cook until warmed.

4. Add the cooked pasta and toss to coat with the sauce. Taste for salt and black pepper and adjust as necessary.

5. Serve in crawfish pasta in bowls garnished with Parmesan cheese.

2 comments categories: Cheese, Dairy, Pasta, Seafood

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