Entries from May 31st, 2012

Cookbook Review: Tender by Nigel Slater

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31.5.12

There’s been some major seasonal produce/farmers’ market fetishism (of which I’m also an eager participant) during the past few years, so vegetables can seem played out. That’s partly why so much meat appears on this blog, but produce was actually my first love. Nigel Slater’s outstanding cookbook, Tender, got me back in touch with my roots.

The book is organized by vegetable and written from the perspective of a gardener. Yet Slater doesn’t shy away from the use of bacon, prosciutto, and artisan cheeses. He understands that these ingredients bring out the best in seasonal produce. I particularly enjoyed his recipe for celery root remoulade— crumbling crisp bacon over the top really dialed this French bistro classic up a notch.

The book is inspiration for dishes that will clean out the fridge or the pantry. The recipes are more like guidelines and come together quickly for weeknight dinners.  They’re adaptable for anyone with cooking intuition, as you can can easily swap out different vegetables for whatever you have on hand. Some of the ingredient combinations are unexpected like the Creamy Baked Brussels Sprouts with Stilton. I collected some bits of Stichelton from my fridge, swapped out the sprouts for kale, and one friend who was scared of blue cheese actually loved the dish.

These carrot fritters are another example of a quick satisfying meal, and you’ll probably find most of the ingredients in your kitchen already.

Carrot and Cilantro Fritters

Ingredients

  • 11 ounces carrots
  • a medium onion
  • a clove of garlic, crushed
  • 2/3 cup heavy cream
  • 1 egg, beaten
  • 3 tablespoons grated cheese, such as a good strong Cheddar
  • cilantro leaves- a handful, coarsely chopped
  • all-purpose flour- a heaping tablespoon
  • olive oil for shallow frying
Procedure

Scrub the carrots and push them through a food processor fitted with a grater attachment. If you prefer, grate them by hand using the coarse side of the grater. Either way, you are after long, thin shreds rather than mush. Transfer them to a bowl.

Peel the onion, finely slice or grate it, and stir it into the carrots along with the garlic and seasoning of salt and black pepper. Stir in the heavy cream, beaten egg, grated cheese, coarsely chopped cilantro, and the flour.

Warm a shallow layer of olive oil in a nonstick frying pan. Drop large dollops of the mixture into the pan, a couple at a time, and fry until lightly cooked at the bottom. Turn with a spatula and let the other side color. They should take three or four minutes per side. The cakes are ready as soon as they are dark gold. Remove to a warm plate. A sheet of paper towel will remove any oil. Eat immediately.

 

Thai Beef Salad

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21.5.12

When I lived in New York City, I got it into my head that I should meet new people, branch out…you know, that sort of thing. People automatically suggested Meetup. I perused the site and settled on a Thai cooking class, figuring it would be a good way to meet other food lovers.

It was a bit of a fiasco to tell the truth, but it was mostly due to my attitude. There are always a bunch of characters at these Meetup things because they are attract awkward people like myself who can’t branch out through usual means. One woman complained loudly the whole time that everything was too spicy. Why would you take a Thai cooking class if you don’t like spicy food? Oh, and there wasn’t enough booze, something I desperately need in these situations.

In the end, the 90 minute trek to Prospect Lefferts, Brooklyn from my apartment in Harlem was worth it. The chef who taught the class was excellent. She shared this easy Thai beef salad recipe, and its fresh and bright flavors now make regular appearances in my cooking repertoire. It maximizes the potential of a cheap cut of beef, and it’s a great way to use up herbs that might be accumulating in your fridge. I will absolutely never order this dish at a restaurant again. It will never measure up.

Thai Beef Salad

Ingredients

  • 2 tablespoons coconut oil, vegetable oil, or rendered beef tallow (any fat with a high smoke point will work)
  • 1 pound beef shoulder or chuck
  • 1 small red onion, thinly sliced
  • 1 handful of mint, chopped
  • 1 handful of mixed herbs, chopped (cilantro, Thai basil, or regular basil work well here)
  • 2 cloves of garlic, minced
  • 1 teaspoon dried Thai chili or 2 diced fresh bird’s eye chilis
  • juice of 4 limes
  • 2 tablespoons fish sauce
  • 1 tablespoon palm sugar (brown sugar is a good substitute)
Directions

1. Take the beef out of the fridge and season both sides aggressively with salt and pepper. Let it sit out for at least 30 minutes.

2. Pour the oil into a cast iron skillet and heat it on medium high until it is very hot, but not smoking. Add the piece of beef to the skillet; it should sizzle when it hits the pan. Sear for about 5 minutes on each side depending on the thickness of the beef. Remove it from the skillet, and let it rest on the cutting board for at least 20 minutes.

3. In a small bowl, combine palm sugar, lime juice, and fish sauce. Set aside.

4. After the meat has finished resting, use a sharp knife to slice it as thinly as possible against the grain.

5. Combine the thinly sliced beef with the herbs, garlic, onions, and chili. Pour the lime juice dressing over the salad and toss to distribute evenly. Serve at room temperature.

Back from Paris

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13.5.12

Wouldn’t it be lovely to spend your life wondering the streets of Paris/eating copious amounts of cheeses & pastries/not working? That’s just not the way the world works unfortunately.

Last month we arrived in Paris jet lagged and disoriented, found our hotel, dropped off our bags, and headed for Pierre Hermé. We picked up a delicious pain au chocolat along with three macarons. Welcome to Paris!

I also dragged Dustin to several cheese shops. Fromageries are funny— it seemed like there were always more people working than shopping. The scene at Barthélemy was particularly amusing. While I was sparring/discussing with the guy about what type of Comté I wanted, he suddenly motioned at me to step back. Then a trapped door in the floor opened. A small man popped out carrying a tray of goat cheeses, piled picturesquely in perfect stacks. We also picked up a slice of rabbit terrine and pastries along on the way.

Feeling smug about my success recalling college French classes, we ventured to a kitchen supply store in Les Halles. Once again, there were more workers than customers. The woman at the register barked something at me, and I didn’t understand a single word. I bumbled through the transaction and somehow left with a new terrine for my charcuterie projects. I won’t need to use a loaf pan anymore!

We had an outstanding final meal in Paris at Les Cocottess, and witnessed Christian Constant himself interrogating his chef. I hope to recreate the standout meal for the blog sometime. More to come.

Crawfish Pasta and Jazz Fest Emotions

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12.5.12

It was Jazz Fest in New Orleans last weekend. I went once or twice a year when I lived there. My first experience involved hopping the VIP barricades to watch Bruce Springsteen up close. Then I rode home in the back of a pickup truck driven by some old hippies. Periodically they’d stop in the street and open all the doors so we could enjoy the Black-Eyed Peas blasting from the radio. I guess it was thoughtful of them.

A random drunk guy got a ride with them too. He rambled to me all about growing up in Gentilly. Being out in the Louisiana sun all day in May makes every drink twice as strong, so I can’t blame him.

Little did I know I’d see that man annually for the next four years. It became part of the Jazz Fest routine. We boarded the Jackson Avenue bus from our Garden District apartment and headed to the Fairgrounds. Like clockwork, a trio of middle-aged men boarded the bus from downtown. One of them was that guy, and sometimes he was forced to sit across from me. But we never acknowledged each other ever again. He was probably so drunk he didn’t remember or maybe just embarrassed. It was somewhat awkward.

I wonder if that guy boarded the Jackson Avenue bus again this past weekend? Some of my bffs still live in New Orleans, but they no longer partake in the bus routine. They’ve moved on.

Oh I was recently gifted some freshly peeled crawfish tails and made a dish similar to the quintessential Jazz Fest dish, Crawfish Monica. It’s pasta smothered in a spicy crawfish sauce. Kajun Kettle Foods only makes it for Jazz Fest, but now you can make it at home.

Crawfish Pasta

Ingredients

1 pound fusilli or penne
1 tablespoons olive oil
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
salt
freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons paprika
1/2 teaspoon onion powder
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon dried marjoram
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1/4 cup dry white wine
1 1/2 cup heavy cream
juice of half a lemon
1 pound crawfish tails
1/2 cup chopped green onions
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Directions

1. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and cook the pasta until it is al dente. Drain and reserve 1/2 a cup of the cooking liquid. Toss the pasta with the olive oil and cooking liquid and set aside.

2. Melt the butter and cook the onions over medium high heat until their soft, about 5 to 10 minutes. Add the salt and black pepper to taste along with garlic, paprika, cayenne pepper, onion powder, marjoram, and thyme and cook for another 1 to 2 minutes.

3. Pour in the white wine and cook over medium heat until almost evaporated. Stir in the cream and lemon and simmer until slightly reduced. Add the crawfish tails, green onions, and parsley, and cook until warmed.

4. Add the cooked pasta and toss to coat with the sauce. Taste for salt and black pepper and adjust as necessary.

5. Serve in crawfish pasta in bowls garnished with Parmesan cheese.

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