Entries from April 29th, 2012

Fun with Lacto-Fermentation

8

29.4.12

I’m not a germaphobe. I will taste anyone’s drink without thinking twice, and I absolutely despise hand sanitizer. So I felt vindicated after learning about the joys of lacto-fermentation. It’s an ancient method of pickling and preserving food that pre-dates refrigeration and sterilization. I was lucky enough to learn about lacto-fermentation years ago when I worked for Just Food in New York City, but anyone can read Sandor Katz’s fabulous book Wild Fermentation to learn more about it.

Sauerkraut and dill pickles weren’t always preserved in vinegar. These foods were likely developed when cabbage and cucumbers sat out in barrels. Airborne bacteria settled in the vegetables and soured, fermented, and preserved them. Fermentation is an unpredictable process, so now food producers use vinegar to make consistent products. Unlike their traditionally fermented counterparts, these industrial foods don’t contain live cultures.

How do you pickle vegetables using lacto-fermentation? It’s a simple process. Slice your vegetables, place them in a non-reactive container, mix them with about 2 tablespoons salt, and cover them with water. Now leave it on your kitchen counter for about one or two weeks.  Taste the ferment every few days. Place the container in your fridge when you’re satisfied with the flavor.

How does lacto-fermentation work? A variety of microscopic bacteria, yeasts, and fungi are all around us in the air.  These microbes convert the sugars and starches in the vegetables to lactic acid. Submerging the vegetables in water creates the anaerobic environment necessary for the process, and the salt inhibits spoilage until enough lactic acid has been produced for preservation. The resulting product is a true reflection of where it fermented. Sauerkraut made in Austin won’t taste the same as sauerkraut made in New York City due to the different microbes in the environment.

Fermentation won’t kill you. In fact, it’s very good for you, and the process increases nutritional content. Just like yogurt, fermented vegetables contain a variety of live microbes that improve digestion. It also creates B vitamins and increases Vitamin C content. Eating a variety of live ferments promotes microbial diversity in our bodies.

Some tips:

  • Lacto-fermentation is unpredictable. Taste your ferment every few days until it tastes good to you. Throw it out if it tastes bad.
  •  Always use non reactive containers and utensils. Weigh down any floating vegetables with a glass to prevent mold growth. This mold is unpleasant, but it isn’t harmful. It can always be skimmed off the surface if necessary.
  • Warm temperatures speed the fermentation process. Your product will continue to ferment in the fridge, but the cold temperature will slow it down. Your ferment is a living thing!
  • Save some of the brine from your last ferment and add it to the next one. This will speed the lacto-fermentation process.
  • Have fun experimenting with a variety of vegetables and flavors. Lacto-fermentation is an easy way to preserve any leftover vegetables from a CSA share.
  • Don’t be scared! Humans have used lacto-fermentation for centuries. Sauerkraut, dill pickles, kimchi, and yogurt are all traditionally fermented foods.
Traditional Sauerkraut
  • One cabbage
  • salt (about 2 tablespoons)
  • spices like dill, celery seeds, or caraway seeds (optional)
  • water

1. Chop cabbage to desired thickness and place in a nonreactive container

2. Thoroughly salt the cabbage and stir to distribute evenly.

3. Pour in enough water to completely cover the cabbage. Weigh down any vegetables floating to the surface.

4. Taste the sauerkraut every few days, and place it in the fridge when it has achieved your desired flavor. It is a living thing and will continue to ferment in the fridge, but the cold temperature will slow the process.

Unlocking the Mystery of Rainbow Cookies

11

15.4.12

When I worked at a crazy cheese shop in New York City around the holiday season,  I didn’t have much energy to do anything but work, sleep, and drink. I didn’t eat much. Usually I ran across Bleecker Street to the Italian bakery for a much-needed sugar boost. Nine times out of ten I bought a rainbow cookie.

I might like the idea of the rainbow cookie more than the actual cookies. I’m attracted to those eye-catching layers of bright pink and green (said to represent the Italian flag) tasting strongly of almond flavoring, held together with apricot or raspberry jam and dipped in dark chocolate. A good rainbow cookie should be more cake than cookie; it should be moist and dense and not at all dry and crunchy.

Growing up in the Northeast, I took rainbow cookies for granted. Any decent Italian bakery in the Northeast carries them. They’re right up there in the Italian-American baked goods cannon with cannolis and pignolis.  That said, I’ve rarely seen them in Texas.

When I saw this recipe in Saveur, I knew I had to make them. It doesn’t actually require much baking skill, but assembling the layers is time-consuming. My cookies turned out a little crooked. After I made them, I saw that Deb from Smitten Kitchen used a different recipe and weighed the cakes down to ensure even layers. Brilliant move! Check out her blog for some more hints.

RAINBOW COOKIES from Saveur

ingredients

1 ½ cups unsalted butter, softened, plus more for pans
2 cups flour, plus more for pans
1 cup sugar
1 12.5-oz. can almond pastry filling, such as Solo brand
4 eggs
12 drops green food coloring
12 drops red food coloring
1 12-oz. seedless raspberry jam (I subbed homemade strawberry vanilla bean jam)
12 oz. semisweet chocolate, melted

instructions

1. Heat oven to 350°. Grease and flour three 9″ x 13″ baking pans and line with parchment paper; set aside. Using a hand mixer on high-speed, beat butter and sugar in a bowl until pale and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add pastry filling; beat until smooth. Add eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add flour; beat until just combined. Evenly divide batter into 3 bowls. Add green food coloring to one bowl, red food coloring to the second bowl, and leave the third bowl plain; stir colorings into batters. Using an offset spatula, spread each batter into a prepared baking pan. Bake each pan until just beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Invert cakes onto wire racks; cool.

2. Heat jam in a 1-qt. saucepan over medium heat; cook, stirring, until smooth; cool slightly. Place green cake on a cutting board or foil-lined baking sheet. Using an offset spatula, spread half the jam over green cake; top with plain cake. Spread remaining jam over plain cake; top with red cake. Chill cakes to set jam, 1 hour.

3. Using a slicing knife, trim cake edges to form an even block. Slice block crosswise into 1 ½″-wide logs; separate on a cutting board. Using an offset spatula, spread chocolate over top, sides, and ends of each log until completely covered; chill to set chocolate. Slice each log crosswise into ½″-thick squares to serve.

Sweet & Savory Goat Ragù

4

12.4.12

Goat is the most popular meat in the world. Did you know that? I’ve wanted to cook it ever since Wheatsville started stocking it. But goat intimidates me. I tried it for the first time in a taqueria in Sunset Park, Brooklyn. I was branching out of my comfort zone. But it was stringy and gamey and just…not…pleasant.

Goat has a distinct flavor for sure, but it’s not as strong as lamb. The key to delicious goat is cooking the crap out of it. Adding liquid helps keep it moist. That’s where this sweet and savory ragù comes into play. Sear the meat, sauté some vegetables, and throw everything in the slow cooker. Dinner is ready when you get home from work. This ragù is fantastic over pasta or homemade gnocchi (even better).

Slow Cooker Goat Ragù

  • 1 pound goat stew meat, cubed
  • olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
  • 1 teaspoon dried thyme
  • 1 yellow onion, diced
  • 1 carrot, peeled and sliced
  • 6 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1 cup white wine
  • 1 14 ounce can peeled whole  tomatoes
  • 1 sprig fresh rosemary
  • 1/2 cup golden raisins

1. Heat the olive oil in a skillet. Add the onions, dried thyme, and red pepper flakes. Cook over medium heat.

2. Add the carrots after the onions become translucent.  After five minutes, add the garlic and cook until just browned (1-2 minutes). Scrape the vegetables into the slow cooker.

3. Dry the goat meat with paper towels and season aggressively with salt pepper. Wipe out the skillet with a paper towel. Add a thin coat of olive oil to the skillet and turn the heat up to high. Add the meat to the hot skillet to get a good sear on it (be careful, the oil might sputter!). Turn the heat off after about 5 minutes, and add the goat to the slow cooker.

4. Pour the white wine and tomatoes into the slow cooker. Toss in the rosemary and raisins and stir to combine everything. Turn on the slow cooker and for at least 6 hours, but 16 is even better. Shred the meat thoroughly with a fork before serving it over pasta or gnocchi.

April in Paris

6

11.4.12

That’s me on my first trip to Europe— young, fresh-faced, and in high school. I’m in the blue and red velvet costume on the left. Dustin and I will be traveling there again this month to attend a wedding. Since that first trip, I’ve lived in Spain and traveled several times to France. I’ve seen all the big sites, so this trip will be mostly about eating… oh and marriage and stuff.

So I need your recommendations! I’m not a fancy restaurant person, but I love shopping for food when I travel. I plan to hit up bakeries and chocolate shops and track down some oysters and decent duck confit. I have some strong cheese opinions and want raw Loire Valley goat cheeses and Comté aged 2+ years. Taking that into account, where do you like to eat in Paris?

Strawberry Vanilla Bean Jam

6

08.4.12

 

strawberries_macerating

I hit a milestone this weekend— jam making! I’m totally cool with making bacon and smoked tongue and stuff, but jam always scared me. In high school my biology teacher traumatized me with exaggerated stories of botulism poisoning. Also, pectin makes me nervous. I’ve taken all sorts of canning and jam making classes, but I still couldn’t handle.

I was first introduced to the strawberry/vanilla combo by Confituras, an incredible artisan company based here in Austin (seriously, you should buy some). For my attempt at the flavor, I used this recipe from Ball. I knew enough to stick with established recipes, but it sucked because five pounds of crushed strawberries does not in fact equal five cups. I upped the lemon juice to ward off botulism because I’m paranoid like that.

jam_making

 

All of that said, I’m lax about canning. I just use a huge pot because I’m against weighing myself down with gear. People have scoffed at me using a towel in the bottom of the pot instead of rack, but the pickling expert at Gramercy Tavern once told me that’s what she does. If it’s good enough for her, then its good enough for me. Also, I used my grilling tongs to pull the jars out of the boiling water, but that’s been putting me in precarious situations. I might break down and get some tongs. I’ve earned it after making this fantastic jam.

strawberry_vanilla_jam

Strawberry Vanilla Bean Jam

  • 2.5 pounds crushed strawberries
  • 1/3 cup lemon juice
  • 1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped
  • 2 teaspoons Pomona’s Universal Pectin
  • 3.5 cups granulated sugar
  • 4 half pint preserving jars, bands, and lids

Directions:

1. Prepare boiling water canner. Heat jars and lids in simmering water until ready for use. Do not boil. Set bands aside.

2. Combine strawberries, lemon juice, and vanilla bean and seeds in a 6- or 8-quart saucepan. Gradually stir in pectin. Bring mixture to a full rolling boil that can not be stirred down, over high heat, stirring constantly.

3. Add entire measure of sugar, stirring to dissolve. Return mixture to a full rolling boil. Boil hard 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat. Skim foam if necessary.

4. Ladle hot jam into hot jars leaving 1/4 inch headspace. Wipe rim. Center lid on jar. Apply band until fit is fingertip tight.

5. Process in a boiling water canner for 10 minutes, adjusting for altitude. Remove jars and cool. Check lids for seal after 24 hours. Lid should not flex up and down when center is pressed.

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