Entries from November 29th, 2011

Wild Game Sausages

3

29.11.11

I’ve been stocking up on homemade charcuterie for the last Charcutepalooza challenge. I want to include wild game in my final dish (it won’t be revealed until next week) to make it more authentic.  I thought it would be easy to get some venison since we have more deer than we know what to do with here in Texas.  At least that was my impression.

Last January, we packed up the car and moved from New York City to Austin.  As we approached our final destination in Texas, we saw about 20 deer chomping on leaves, flowers, landscaping and whatnot. I felt like we were venturing deep into the wilderness, and it made me nervous. I wanted to cry out to Dustin, “Where the hell are you taking me?!” I had seen maybe three deer in all of my time growing up in Rhode Island.

So imagine my surprise when I discovered how difficult it is to buy venison. A few stores around town sell venison from New Zealand, which is patently absurd. The FDA has almost prohibitively strict standards related to selling wild game in retail outlets. My only option was to order from Broken Arrow Ranch, a meat purveyor here in Texas that is permitted to sell field harvested wild game by bringing a meat inspector with them on hunts.

Venison & Wild Boar Sausage based on Chef Milos’s Country Venison Sausage from Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn’s Charcuterie. Makes about 2.5 lbs of sausages.

Ingredients

  • 1 1/2 lbs. boneless, lean venison
  • 1 lb. wild board belly
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 teaspoon paprika
  • 1/2 teaspoon pink salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 3 cloves fresh garlic, chopped
  • 1/2 cup ice water

1. Combine all the ingredients except the water and toss to mix thoroughly. Chill until ready to grind.

2. Grind the mixture through the small die into a bowl set in ice.

3. Add the water to the meat mixture and mix with a sturdy spoon, gradually adding the water until it is incorporated and the mixture develops a uniform, sticky appearance.

4. Saute a bite-sized portion of the sausage, taste, and adjust seasoning if necessary.

5. Stuff the sausage into the hog casings, and twist into 6-inch links. Let dry 1 to 2 hours at room temperature or in the refrigerator.

6.Hot-smoke the sausages at a temperature of 180 degrees to an internal temperature of 150 degrees. Transfer to an ice bath to chill thoroughly, then refrigerate.

Tasting these sausages was rather climactic after researching wild game sources, emotionally ordering the meat, waiting for the delivery, and making them. I was apprehensive as usual, scared that the wild boar would be too musky and that the sausages’ strong, gamey flavor would permeate my dish. But now I’m excited! These sausages taste like the best, meatiest, most flavorful kielbasa ever, and I think they’ll be the perfect ingredient.

Spicy Mustard from Scratch

0

16.11.11

I get obsessed with certain foods and start eating them each day. Right now that food is a certain sandwich. Every morning before work I toast sourdough bread and spread it with Cazelle de St. Affique, a barnyardy sheep’s milk cheese. Then I slice a few cornichons in half, press them into the soft cheese, add 2 slices of French style ham, and top it off with another piece of bread spread with whole grain mustard. This is not a delicately flavored sandwich. The tangy mustard and cornichons mixed with the pungent cheese and sweet ham makes for a somewhat intense combo.

I pack my lunch almost everyday since I’ll never find Cazelle de St. Affique offered at Quizno’s, Einstein’s Bros. Bagels, or the other quality establishments surrounding the University of Texas campus. So I’ve been going through lots of mustard. It isn’t expensive, but making your own is insanely cheap and easy. You mix together mustard seeds, mustard powder, and vinegar and put it in a jar. I also threw in some honey.

I based this mustard on Hank Shaw’s recipe from Hunter Angler Gardener Cook. It’s quite rustic and sour with lots of quick.

Spicy Country Mustard

  • 4 tablespoons white mustard seeds
  • 2 tablespoons black mustard seeds
  • 1/2 cup mustard powder
  • 3 tablespoons vinegar (cider, white wine or sherry)
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
  • 2 tablespoons honey

1. Grind both types of mustard seeds in a food processor or spice grinder. They should be mostly whole and not ground to a powder.

2. In a bowl, combine the seeds with the mustard powder, salt, and honey. Stir in the vinegar and water until all the ingredients are well combined and the powder has dissolved completely.

3. Place the mixture in the fridge for at least 12 hours until the bitter flavor has disappeared.

That’s all there is to making mustard. You don’t even need to heat stuff! But you do need to wait for it to develop its flavor.  This recipe is unique because the black mustard seeds contribute to the spiciness. Your mustard will be milder if you substitute them with brown or white mustard seeds. Who knew different colors of mustard seeds had such different flavor?

Homemade Bacon Is So 2011

15

10.11.11

I know fetishizing bacon is so 2007. You won’t catch me sporting an “I <3 Bacon” t-shirt or getting a hog tattooed on my arm. But I’ve had a revelation, and I must share it.

I didn’t ‘get’ the deal about bacon until I made it from scratch this year, in 2011. Now when I wake up on Sunday mornings after drinking a few too many Lone Stars, the first thought that pops into my head is “BACON!” It’s the only thing that revives me.  I jump out of bed and make some sort of breakfast incorporating crispy bacon, and the world is made right. It’s so much smokier and more flavorful than the stuff from the store. Now I need homemade bacon in my fridge at all times.

You can make bacon too. It’s not hard. It involves 1. curing 2. waiting, and 3. smoking (in that order). The only special item you need is pink salt. No, not Himalayan pink salt like I thought at first. It’s salt with nitrates added to it.  You’ll also need kosher salt, sugar, and a 2 to 5 pound slab of pork belly. You might as well start with good pork. I recently toured Richardson’s Farm with Slow Food Austin and came home with 12 pounds of pastured pork belly. Here are the pigs Richardson’s, doing their pig stuff.

I used to be strict about bacon directions, diligently following a recipe to flavor and cure the belly, placing it in the fridge, and religiously rubbing it and turning it every other day.  On the seventh day, I smoked it. It was much like God creating the world. Now I just sort of wing it.

The first step is assembling a basic dry cure using Michael Ruhlman’s and Brian Polcyn’s recipe from Charcuterie.

  • 1 pound/450 grams kosher salt
  • 8 ounces/225 grams sugar
  • 2 ounces/50 grams pink salt (sodium nitrite)

I combine and mix everything in bowl, and then store it in a jar or other airtight container. Then I rub a healthy handful into all sides of the meat. Since I like a savory bacon, I add flavorings like garlic, rosemary, red chili flakes, or garlic. Sweet bacon fans can experiment with brown sugar or molasses. You can get creative, but I usually use whatever I have on hand.

Next I place the belly in a 1 or 2 gallon ziplock bag for at least a week. Since I cure my bacon with sodium nitrate, which is an antimicrobial, I have no problem leaving it in the fridge until I find some time/work up the energy to smoke it.

We don’t use any fancy wood chips to smoke as fallen wood from the backyard works perfectly. We place the pork belly in a cast iron skillet and place it in the grill, making sure the fire doesn’t exceed 225 degrees. We sprinkle it with water when it gets too hot. The longer you can smoke the bacon the better, but even smoking for 1 or 2 hours will make it taste good. If you’re motivated, you can experiment with different smoking techniques. We once added pipe tobacco to the smoke, and it imparted truly excellent flavor.

So now you know. Grab yourself a slab of pork belly and get curing and smoking, and then wrap it up in plastic wrap and store it in the fridge. When the need for bacon strikes, carve off a few thick slices, fry it up in the skillet, and you too will vow never to get the store-bought, vacuum-sealed stuff again.

Making Vinegar or My Mad Science Experiment

7

02.11.11

My favorite bottle of sherry vinegar is finished. This week I used the last drop almost three years after schlepping it home from Spain. “Home” at the time was New Orleans, but I’ve since moved it with me to New York City, and then to Austin, where I’m currently living.

This bottle of vinegar got me thinking about how fast time flies. I can’t believe it has been three years. But I counted back all the great New Years Eves I’ve celebrated since then, and I realized it has definitely been that long. Time flies.

As I struggled to get the last drops of vinegar out of the bottle, a slimy blob freed itself from the bottom. It sat in my various pantries for so long that a vinegar mother had formed. I thought about the half bottles of wine left in my fridge (I’m more of a beer girl) that were old and undrinkable. Should I combine them and try to make vinegar? Can you even use a sherry vinegar mother to make vinegar with flat sparking wine?

I know nothing about vinegar making, and I haven’t found great advice on the internet. Everything is telling me to run out and get the gear like a special crock, glass containers with spigots, and mail-ordered mothers. I hate getting the gear. Contrary to popular opinion, it will not make me a better cook or “foodie”.

So I placed the mother in a glass jar and poured the wine over it. I secured a paper towel over the top to keep bugs out. It’s an experiment of sorts. Does anyone out there know if it will work? If so, I can bring it with me to my next destination, wherever that is.

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